20120701
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boiled salad. |
20120113
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browned butter popcorn |
happy new year! how was yours? you guys, you have to try this sometime: brown some butter in a saucepan until nutty, add a handful of chopped (lemon) thyme, parsley and a squeeze of lemon, then drizzle it in some freshly popped popcorn. zomg, peeps, so good. so ono. probably not particularly healthy but it was time you broke that resolution this year anyway, right?
you can get the recipe right here. see you soon.
20111030
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herby quinoa with mango and eggplant. |
anyway, people (and maybe even wiki) say it's good for you, so i've been trying to eat it. it's just a little too seedy for me to treat it like a grain, so i can only eat so much of it. i recently started reading heidi swanson's blog again, and in her reinvention of pasta salad, she drastically reduces the amount of pasta in the salad, and makes the vegetables the star. i thought perhaps i would take this approach with quinoa; instead of making it the main ingredient, i'd delegate it to the background for now, at least until i get a better grasp of this tumbleweed relative.
20110930
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weekend project: the PBLT. |
i watched the dudes at meskla dos make a PBLT, took notes on their method carefully: cut two inordinately thick slices off a massive slab of pork belly. chuck in deep-fryer until golden brown. slather an alarming amount of mayo on a soft white bun, top with slivers of tomato and half a leaf of lettuce, arrange deep-fried pork belly--which is twice the weight and over half the volume of everything else--on top, serve with a smile. i cut off two almost half-inch strips of pork belly from a partially frozen slab, sprinkled it with some sea salt and let it stand for about 10 minutes before frying it in an inch or so of oil, until golden brown (about 3-5 minutes). i left them on some paper towel to pointlessly drain off the excess fat as i assembled the rest of the sandwich: ciabatta bread was toasted, slathered on both sides with japanese kewpie mayonnaise, topped with a fistful of green oak and butter lettuces, and fat slabs of beautifully ripe tomato which i sprinkled with pink sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper. the ratio of veg to meat was about equal in this, and the ciabatta, while light, provided more body that the soft bun, and the open-crumbed yet firm texture would soak up the inevitable mayo-tomato juice-pork juice sluice that would come. it did, and provided another dimension of crunchiness to this already crunchy sandwich. unfortunately, the pork belly's almost jerky-like texture still fought it out with its 'wichmates and left me struggling with a sandwich that distintegrated as i ate. i know some people enjoy the interplay but i prefer a slightly more harmonious structure.
20110512
20110309
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get your mojo on! |
20110202
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tv dinner. |
i have to admit, i haven't really followed the career of chef mason because he looks like a relative of mine who i'd like to decapitate and stitch his head back on with an awl on a regular basis, so i've got irrational bias. i know i'm totally late to the party, but when i read about "dinner with the band" i knew it was worth checking out--indie music? good food? add a couple of fast cars in the mix and they woulda hit a trifecta, but two out of three is rarely ever bad, even if it is a meatloaf song.
if you haven't seen the show, the basic conceit is that a band shows up at chef mason's space, he cooks a meal and creates a cocktail that is somewhat tailored to the guests, and they play some music. zomg, the music! soooo good. great bands--most of whom i'd heard before, but i'm totally loving the ones i'd not known previously, in particular theophilus london and the devil makes three.
luckily, i actually had most of the ingredients on hand to make the main part of meal from the murder city devils ep: midnight burritos at the mason kitchen.



here's the band:
my notes:
--i used frozen pre-roasted tomatillos in the salsa.
--the chorizo is a local product, and pretty freaking awesome. i used the chicken chorizo, which didn't produce a lot of oil, so for the lentils, i drained off some of the 'rizo juice and added a small glug of olive oil.
--i used regular lentils and didn't mash them down that much as i was looking for more texture.
--even though there are a zillion components, it is actually not that complicated. from start to finish, i had all the components made and the burritos assembled in just about an hour.
"dinner with the band" is on IFC, or by download on itunes.
20110131
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cheesy poofs. |

ANYWAY. back to the stanford game in october. i had the game on because i lost the remote and just needed background noise. and then the announcer said something i had never heard in a game before. he gave the grade point average of the player. andrew luck--team quarterback, majoring in architecture, with a 3.5 grade point average. i looked up. is this normal? or is it just because it's stanford that you get the GPA? anyway, i thought "golly, i hope they don't kill the qb with the good grades." and the more i watched the game, the more i realized that college ball was far more interesting to me than pro ball--i could follow the game, understand the plays, and there was the sense of sportsmanship i had previously found missing, even if yeah, they sometimes want to maim the quarterback a little.
so now i watch football. but only collegiate, mind. i still don't know when the super bowl is, but apparently it's soon. and there are a bunch of recipes online for people getting ready for superbowl parties. chef ludo lefebvre (you know, this guy) offered up a "cheese puffs" recipe on daily candy. these cheese puffs are actually gruyère gougères, a sort of cream puff shell loaded with gruyére cheese. they are light, puffy and hollow--slighty crispy, slightly eggy, and nicely flavoured by the nutty sharpness of the cheese. you could probably eat a whole batch of these on their own, straight out of the oven. or even split and fill them--if you want to go a classic '70s cocktail route, try crab or tuna salad, or, if you want to do elevated comfort food, maybe a little prosciutto and strawberry preserves for an upscale take on a monte cristo sandwich.
if you are going to get your su'bowl party on, what are you going to serve? where does cheese puff fall in the realm of football party food?

my notes:
--didn't use an electric mixer at any point, just a wooden spoon.
--used 1/8th of a teaspoonful of kosher salt instead of a pinch (technically, 1/8th is two pinches).
--follow the times carefully--you really do need to mix and dry the dough for up to ten minutes.
--if you drop the dough by spoonfuls, a heaping teaspoonful will yield about 3 dozen, and take 20 minutes in the oven. if using heaping tablespoonful, you'll get approximately 1 1/2 dozen and it will take approximately 30 minutes to bake (check five minutes prior).
--try to drop the dough on the sheet in tall mounds--the dough will spread a bit, you don't want flat puffs :)
20100303
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coconut, sashimi-style. |

something so simple and something so lovely and unusual is to serve the coconut sashimi-style, cut into bite-sized strips, accompanied with a sushi-grade soy sauce and wasabi. the condiments transform the flavour of the meat into something akin to ika, or raw squid. no, it's not fishy, but it seems more savoury, milky, and slightly sweet. it makes a good palate cleanser if you are serving several types of sashimi, or a nice alternative for a vegan or non-fish eating member of your party.
top tip: use the youngest coconut you can find. the sweeter and softer the flesh, the better!
20100116
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street, cleaner |
1-2 dried chili peppers (w or w/o seeds)
1 teaspoonful sichuan pepper, lightly cracked/roughly chopped
1-2 tablespoonfuls preserved mustard greens, chopped finely (optional, but it actually provides most of the saltiness in this version. if you omit it, add soy sauce or tamari)
1/2 lb ground turkey or ground chicken or finely minced shiitake mushrooms or any combination you want
20100115
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toast of christmas past. |
20090813
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WIP: duck fat fried chicken |
with
a schmantzy condiment, a grilled tomato ketchup. you could pour a bottle of ketchup onto a grill but that would be messy. tomato halves and onions went in a grill pan with a smidge of olive oil, until a nice bit of char was achieved. they then went into this epicurious recipe, replacing the canned ones on the ingredient list. doubled the amount of tomato paste instructed for good measure, too. worked a charm.
and the chicken? crispy, shardy skin, juicy meat that seems saturated in duck fat. i called this a work in progress because although this was decadent and delicious and oh-so-delightful, i might try marinating the meat next time, or perhaps use an herby confit fat. can't see how it can hurt.
20090731
20090602
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bistek |

bistek--which means "beef steak"--is the filipino/chamoru equivalent of a beef dish called bistec commonly found throughout hispanic and latino countries. it is, in fact, the pacific cousin to bistec encebollado, or steak with onions. it is quite literally just that: grilled or pan-fried beef fillets marinated in a soy sauce and citrus marinade with just a hint of garlic, with rings of sautéed onions.
i'm not sure what the actual difference between the filipino and chamoru versions is, if there is one at all. the recipe i grew up with uses calamansi (or kalamansi if you like) juice as the souring agent. it also acts as a meat tenderizer, so it is not necessary to use the best cuts of beef for this--although i have generally seen sirloin and tenderloin (eye steak) used, this is a good way to use tougher cuts like flank and round. however, should you find yourself with a dozen defrosted rib eyes and new york strips because someone inadvertently unplugged the fridge overnight, don't hesitate to use them. in fact, don't hesitate to use them.
this is a fairly easy recipe, but it does require that you generally know how to cook a piece of meat. i can cook a tender cut of steak, but i'm flummoxed with a flank. my mother, however, can make the leanest cuts as soft as butter, so adapt this recipe accordingly. ideally you should end up with tender meat and meltingly soft onions in not-too-salty-not-too-sour meaty gravy. but you know what? if you eff it up, it's still going to be pretty good, so don't worry about it and try it again another time.
bistek
2-lbs of beef steaks of your choice, whatever you're comfortable with using
1 cup of soy sauce (important note: if all you have is kikkoman original brand or something as strong, use less--anywhere from 1/4th to 1/2 cup less because it is a little harsh for this recipe. i use aloha shoyu, which i find is sweeter and milder, but try a lower sodium brand or even tamari if you can't find an equivalent)
1/2-3/4th cup of calamansi juice, or any sour citrus juice--use more or less to your taste
2 large onions, cut into rings
2 cloves of garlic, minced finely
olive oil
marinate the meat in the soy sauce and calamansi juice for a minimum of four hours--overnight is better. depending on your cut of beef, two nights might be best, but that's sort of pushing it. fry or grill in a large, smokin' hot pan or skillet on high heat until medium rare to medium (it will continue to cook for a few minutes after taken from heat). remove from pan, set aside. lower the heat to medium high, add a couple tablespoonfuls of olive oil to the pan, then the garlic and onions. sautée until at least translucent--my family prefers them to be caramelized, which takes much longer but has a sweeter result. add beef and any meat juices back into pan; if it's relatively dry, add some of the marinade and/or water, turn heat down, simmer for a few minutes. serve with a bucket of rice or potatoes.
20090411
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happy eater |

take some salmon belly, cut it into bite-sized strips. season with sea or kosher salt. heat up a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil in a pan, place salmon belly skin side down. fry until crispy, possibly up to 15 minutes because that's how long it sometimes takes. if your salmon strips are thin enough, you won't have to turn it over, but a little pinky rawness would never be unwelcome.
meanwhile back at the ranch dressing, finely dice up a ripe tomato, some scallion, and capers if you have them. no worries if you don't. if you don't have tomato, i can't help you, but you will find a way, because you are a smart cookie. oh! ORANGE. that would work. really. dress with a little ponzu (or lemon juice), some soy sauce and/or sea salt, and a bit of anchovy or fish sauce.
place a slice of your salmon belly chicharon on a shiso/perilla leaf (butter lettuce will work just fine). top with the tomato-scallion mix, a drizz of crème fraîche or sour cream thinned out with a bit of lemon juice, and a shake of shichimi tōgarashi. wrap. eat.
happy eater!
20080626
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watermelon coolers |
sometimes there's a truck selling watermelon out by the post office in barrigada (look for the corn truck); if you should see it, definitely stop by. lately the watermelons have been extra juicy and sugary sweet.
i had some feta cheese left from my grilled corn bonanza this weekend, so i used it to top a favourite salad of arugula, thinly sliced ribbons of red onion, watermelon balls, and a raspberry balsamic vinaigrette. the watermelon cools the bolder flavours and adds a nice touch of sweetness.
i don't think there's really any reason to do anything but chill and slice up these bewdies, but if you feel a little creative and have some time, a melon baller and a little mint makes for a lovely presentation.
in case you have an overripe/underripe one or are looking for a change, you can make a simple, refreshing granita. just make a simple syrup, flavour it any way you wish or leave it as is (i like to add lime zest and finely chopped fresh and candied ginger). add as much as you wish to some cut up fruit, then freeze up the lot in a zippered freezer bag. bash it about a bit every 20 minutes or so, and you'll have a light and icy summertime treat.
20080307
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nutter |
weekend treats for you to try: maple-glazed pecans, adapted from a "tartine" recipe. very lightly sweet, and salty too, which makes them v. addictive. so easy, cheaper and fresher than the stuff you can buy prepackaged.
spiced herby almonds, also adapted from another "tartine" recipe. the ingredients are the more or less the same, the quantities just a suggestion, experimentation mandatory. the main diff in both these recipes is that i used a microwave for ease, convenience, and to appease said microwave of its reheating leftovers doldrums. the only problem in this is that i have no idea of how to tell you when the nuts are done. if you smell something burning, that's means they are really, really...done. times given in the recipes below are for a 1200w microwave, for nuts that are extra toasty, but not burnt. if you feel this is a far too foolish method (i don't blame you), roast them on a lined cookie sheet in a conventional oven at 400˚F for six to eight minutes, stirring occasionally.
*
vaguely related: friends from japan arrived, bearing large quantities of roasted chestnuts. usually a highlight on their own, but made more fun with a little plastic doohickey that scores the chestnuts for easy access. how fun is that? very, i say. :sigh:
maple glazed pecans adapted from a "tartine" cookbook recipe
2 tbsp corn syrup
2 tbsp maple syrup
2 tbsp white sugar
1 tsp sea salt
3-4 cups of raw, shelled pecans
mix all ingredients well. microwave in a glass or ceramic dish, one or two cups at a time, on "high" for one minute. stir well. return to microwave for one minute. stir again. return to microwave for another 30 seconds to a minute, keeping a close nose for signs of burning. cool completely, stirring occasionally to break up the sticking pieces. cool completely. if they aren't crunchy enough or are too sticky for you, return 'em to the microwave for another minute zap.
spiced almonds adapted from a "tartine" cookbook recipe
a couple sprigs of thyme
a small stalk of rosemary
1 tbsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp sea salt
2 tbsp corn syrup
3-4 cups of raw almonds
strip the leaves off the rosemary stalk. finely mince the thyme and rosemary. in a large bowl, mix all ingredients well. microwave in a glass or ceramic dish, one or two cups at a time, on "high" for one minute. stir well. return to microwave for one minute. stir again. return to microwave for another 30 seconds to a minute, keeping a close nose for signs of burning. cool completely, stirring occasionally to break up the sticking pieces. cool completely. if they aren't crunchy enough for you, return 'em to the microwave for another minute zap.
20080208
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happy new year! |

tea eggs are a popular asian street food, prepared by simmering boiled eggs in a tea, soy sauce and spice mix. the marbling comes from a light cracking of the shell, and a long simmer time. surprisingly, even after a couple hours in the hot bath, the egg white does not become super-rubbery, and the yolk remains creamy. the flavour of the tea and spices permeates, but in a subtle way. i can't say i notice the spices all that much, but the smokiness of the tea and the light touch of salt enhance the flavour of the otherwise everyday egg. if this egg were a metaphor for how the rest of the year will be, i would say that it would be solid, sunny, with a touch of erratic glamour. i'll take it! and happy new year to you all.
tea eggs
6-8 eggs
water, enough to cover eggs
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 teabags (i used oolong)
2 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
black peppercorns
2 long strips of orange peel, with most (or all) of the white pith removed
place eggs in saucepan with water. bring to a boil. turn off heat, leave eggs in pan for 10 minutes. remove eggs from pan (save water), tap them with the back of a spoon to crack the shells, keeping the shells intact.
return eggs in water with tea, soy sauce, peel, and spices. add more water to just cover the eggs if necessary. bring back to a boil, then simmer for two hours. or, do this step in a rice cooker; after the boil, set the rice cooker to "warm" position, and leave the eggs for two hours. peel one egg as a test. if the colour isn't dark enough, leave the eggs in the simmering mix for longer, or store the (unshelled) eggs immersed in the liquid in the fridge overnight.
20080205
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strawberry double cheesecake. |

both varieties employed are more commonly found in japan than the heavy new york-style cake, hence the "japanese" moniker. "rare" is just an allusion to the fact that is uncooked (as in a rare steak), just yogurt, cream cheese, strawberries and sugar set with a little bit of gelatin. i adapted a recipe from about.com for this. the baked cheesecake contains less than half the cream cheese of your average american style cake, and has a soft, silky, fluffy texture from whipped egg whites. it is because of this that it is sometimes known as a cheesecake soufflé (or soufflé cheesecake). i modded betty shimabukuro's recipe, as i actually encountered the same problems she did when trying other recipes on the web. no matter, this one turned out fine.
strawberry double cheesecake
"rare" layer:
1 package/8oz cream cheese, softened
1 cup yogurt-plain, vanilla or strawberry-flavoured, your choice
1- 1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen (thawed) strawberries, puréed
1/3 cup sugar, more if the strawberries aren't sweet
2 tbsps lemon juice
1 packet/1 tbsp powder gelatin
1/4 cup water
baked layer:
1 package/8oz cream cheese, softened
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup sugar
3 eggs, separated
1/4 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
preheat oven to 325˚F . place a parchment round on the bottom of an 8-inch round cake pan or springform pan.
beat cream cheese and cream together. add egg yolks, cornstarch, lemon juice, and half the sugar until smooth. beat egg whites in a separate bowl until foamy with a hand mixer. add remaining sugar and cream of tartar, beating until soft peaks form. slowly fold beaten egg whites into cream-cheese mixture, until thoroughly combined. pour into cake pan and smooth the surface. place cake pan into a larger roasting pan and place in lower rack of oven. pour enough boiling water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the side of the cake pan. bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until cake has pulled away from the pan, and a pick inserted into the center comes out clean.
cool in the pan on a rack (it will deflate), then unmold cheesecake. refrigerate for at least three hours. once cooled, carefully cut the cake in half horizontally so you have two layers. unmold the rare cheesecake and place it on top of one layer. spread a layer of strawberry jam or cut fruit, if you want. top with second baked cheesecake layer. since the baked cheesecake will have shrunk a bit, a little trimming of the middle layer will be necessary. you can serve it immediately, but i prefer to cover the cake with plastic wrap, and refrigerate so that the layers "settle"a bit.
20080204
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rochers. |
rochers: meringue and toasted silvered almonds in big crispy-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside-mounds. a recipe from the tartine bakery cookbook, from the tartine bakery in san francisco, ca.
miss craftapalooza suggested meringues with cream for my strawberry glut, but there was something about these that beckoned. probably the toasty loveliness of slivered almonds that don't just dot the meringue, but create a virtual haystack within--no nibble shall be nutless, i tell you. the original recipe says it makes 30 small cookies, i managed to eke out a dozen of these giganto versions. piping is recommended, even though the almond pieces will clog the tip; also, results can be unbecoming. just stick to heaping teaspoonfuls (or tablespoonfuls) and you should get something similar to a favourite golden wrapped confection. eaten out of hand, or coarsely crushed over sliced strawberries and cream, these are big rock cookie mountains i'll take over the candy version, any day.